And what a skip, hop, and a jump that was
We’re back from Rome, which was as great as ever. Ditto for Emelyn, who hit the Italians with a shock-and-awe charm offensive so big it deserved State Department funding. (I’m sure Emmie would’ve toned down the maximum-wattage cuteness if she’d realized that nearly every Italian man, woman, and child seemed to think she was our darling boy. The multitudes kept stopping in their tracks to say “Ciao Bello!” to her - not quite the same as “Ciao Bella”.)
Anyhow, it was a fine time, and thanks to a few years’ worth of Starwood Points, the whole affair was a mighty luxurious free ride, to boot. We stayed on Via Veneto, in a hotel that was palatial in style and scale. Emelyn, for her part, quickly discovered she had more space to crawl around than she does at home, and promptly went nuts venturing from the bathroom to the bedroom and back again.
The clear highlight of the trip from her perspective was the hotel’s bathroom scale, which she joyously clambered on every two minutes. A bit obsessive, perhaps, but still a better fixation than her very first object of desire, namely, the cable that dangled from the plasma TV screen. She’s her dad’s daughter, for sure - Emelyn started pulling and yanking on that bit of high-priced technology about 30 seconds after we first entered the room - but Azure and I quickly jerry-rigged a Grand Barricade that kept her from the electrics.
We didn’t spend the entire time in the hotel, of course — we pushed across most of the Centro Storico in our five days there. For Azure and I, the trip was prioritized solely along culinary lines, and we hit pretty much every target on our list. I’m proud to report that Emelyn’s first pasta was from Da Tonino’s (the staff there not only recognized us, but gave me the kiss-kiss) and her first bite of pizza was equally proper, coming from Pizzeria Da Baffeto. Nuthin’ but the best for my girl.

Food and caffe aside, it was a surprisingly mellow trip. Azure and I both went to bed at 8pm or so every night, since Em’s crib blocked the door - no in and out privileges for either parent. The Easter holiday also meant that a lot of the city was closed. We spent Easter Sunday lunching and lounging in the Villa Borghese with some friends who run a hostel in Rome, and wound up splurging on room service later that night, as every restaurant outside the hotel was shut down or full up. (Pity the Starwood points didn’t cover that doozy of a bill.)
Sleeping in is never an option, anymore, but in Rome the mornings were still infinitely more civil than the workweek here. The most treasured part of my day was rolling out of bed, grabbing Emelyn, and heading down the block to a Bar for a morning cappuccino. (It was also a chance to learn just how fast Emelyn’s become — she swiped my very first cappuccino in Rome right off the bar, and sent the full cup clattering to the floor. But that also taught me how carrying a baby is like wearing a VIP pass in Italy; the staff were ludicrously gracious about the whole affair.)
What else? We squeezed in multiple visits to the saints — San Eustachio for coffee, San Crispino for gelato. Never went shopping, really, except for a brief look inside La Cicogna near the Spanish Steps, where we saw a Burberry dress for infants being hawked for a mere 275 Euro. (Not Emelyn’s size, I’m afraid.) Managed to visit Lo Zozzone for sandwiches made on top of pizza bianca right out of the oven, and ate deep-fried zucchini flowers at an Hostaria in the Jewish ghetto. Can’t complain.
That’s all I have to tell. Though I should add one note, for the record: Getting there and back was not half the fun. Emelyn had sniffles and a cough for most of the trip, and the plane ride there was hard. Going back was worse - first, poverina vomited in the taxi, then Azure and I aged a few years as we almost missed the plane. Once aboard, Emelyn pretty much screamed at any point when she wasn’t read the ‘Are You My Mother?’ book. She definitely won the Worst Baby On The Plane Award going home; not much else I can say except that she’s one for superlatives. (Plus, she’s got a very good excuse - since Rome, she seems to have picked up a secondary infection that has left her totally miserable, now.) Overall, the travelling bit was a far cry from our last trip stateside, where Emelyn behaved so very nicely that our kind neighbors on the plane actually sent Emmie a pair of booties from New Zealand a few weeks afterwards. But that’s a story unto itself